Below are some pictures of a 1998 ford crown victoria police interceptor starter motor in various stages of disassembly.

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The terminals on the back of the solenoid cap



The back of the starter with the solenoid removed. To push the starter drive forward pull backwards on the black lever.



The solenoid removed from the starter. When the coils inside the solenoid are energized, the plunger will pull inwards towards the solenoid.

The blue boot on the solenoid plunger is there so that during cold weather, water can't get in and freeze the solenoid in place.



The solenoid with the connector terminal cap removed.



A closeup of the starter solenoid moveable electrical contacts. These contacts carry a couple hundred amperes when the starter is engaged.



Looks like the copper contacts got hot enough at some point to become molten metal and later cooled down to reform solid metal.



If you look closely, you'll notice 4 wires leading to the engagement coils inside the solenoid. One coil winding inside the solenoid is called the "pull-in coil" and like the name implies pulls the plunger inwards when engaged. The other coil winding is wound of smaller guage wire and is called the "hold-in coil", and is designed to hold the plunger in position after the "pull-in coil" has pulled it in.



Here's the cap. During removal, the terminals on the cap were treated a somewhat rough and got damaged.



And the bottom of the cap with the stationary contacts visible



There were little lockrings on the outside of the cap which were cut off, and then the contacts could be removed from the cap



On one of the contacts, a significant portion of metal has gone missing. On the other, it looks like the metal became hot enough to become liquid, and later cooled and resolidified.



The contact surfaces of the bolts were a little difficult to see in the above pictures. So they were inserted upside down into the cap for a closeup view of their surfaces.



And the same picture with focussed in a little different spot





Here's the moveable solenoid contacts in there energized position



Rather than providing electricity to the coil for engagement, a manual holding fixture consisting of transparent duct tape was used



One of these contacts is missing so much metal that the motor didn't get enough power to turn anymore







Here is the spring under the contacts. If you've ever heard the "machine gun" sound from your starter motor when your battery has been depleted really low, this is from the coils in the solenoid being intermittently unable to overcome the force of the springs.



The coil winding that can be seen connected directly to the solenoid metal is the ground side of the "hold-in coil". The high current "pull-in coil" gets it's ground path through the starter motor windings. This results in the "pull-in" winding disengaging as soon as the motor starts turning, but the "hold-in" winding continuosly creating a magnetic field until the vehicle operator releases the ignition key from the "start" position.







And here are some pictures of the solenoid disassembled further

















Here you can see the return spring which pulls the moveable contacts away from the stationary contacts on the solenoid cap. And also slides the starter drive away from the ring gear.















Here's the armature, brushes, brush holder, and brush springs.

The positive brush feed wire in this starter had become really hot due to worn solenoid contacts. And a portion of the rubber crumbled into little peices.



The rubber portion of the positive brush feed wire didn't seal out water very well anymore. And the metal portion that held the feed wire stationary in relation to the cap had almost shorted to the feed wire.



The ground brushes are in good condition though



The connection from the solenoid ring terminal to the positive brush feed wire was a little weak and broke when the solenoid was removed.



In the background, you can see a couple of the springs which push the brushes outwards towards the commutator



Here's the other side of the positive brushes.



And a picture of new positive ground brushes for comparison



And the negative ground brushes



And a picture of new ground brushes for comparison



And here's the armature assembly. Take note of the drive gear for the planetary gears in the starter nose.



And a closeup of the commutator installed inside the field case. Take note of the big magnets that replace the field coils that you'd find in older starters.



And the other end of the case



Take note of the really long bolts which hold the housing together





There are 4 circular holes cut into the motor cover assembly. Two have through bolts in them which hold the housing together. The other two are for holding the brush assemblies in place.

Take note that the ground brush gets an electrical ground path through the cap. If you get corrosion on the cap in the brush ground bolt area, your starter motor might not have enough power in it to crank over the engine anymore. In this particular case, the cap was clean in the area in question and provided a good ground path.



Space is really tight in the area around a crown victoria starter. But if you could manage to get the solenoid and rear housing off of the starter, accessing the top bolt would be a breeze.





Here are the components of the front starter drive



That black peice on the front one-way clutch gets wedged against the front de housing so that when the solenoid plunger retracts inwards the starter clutch gets pushed outwards towards the transmission flexplate.



And here is how the starter would split in two if the two housing bolts were loosened



Or removed completely



Here's the clip which holds the one-way clutch on the planetary shaft



The bolts that hold the housing together are really long in relation to the ones that hold the solenoid on the starter.



Here's a closeup of the nose housing thrust bearing



The ford permament magnet starters turn fast, but generate relatively little torque. This issue is overcome by installing planetary reduction gears inside the starter.

If the gears are removed, needle bearings are visible inside them.



There is a metal peice which covers the planetary gears is not present here



here's the armature mated with the end planetary assembly



And the armature by itself



The magents in this case are quite powerful. But interestingly, on the outside of the case there isn't any noticeable magnetic field present.



Here's a closeup of the one-way clutch which spins freely in one direction. But locks up solid in the other direction.

Also present is the lever which pushes the gear forward onto the engine ring gear.



1993 and later ford crown victorias use a 12 tooth gear. And there are a couple other gears with a different number of teeth avaliable for different applications.

One interesting application is the ford taurus. From 1996-1999, ford used a 10 tooth gear. Starting in 2000, they switched to a 12 tooth gear.



And the back of the clutch assembly where it slides onto the planetary shaft



And here's the one-way roller clutch disassembled



The grease inside was a little "dried up" after 10 years of use



And the grease didn't completly protect against rust anymore either



Here's the cap which held the clutch together. At first, i tried cutting just one slot in the side with a hacksaw and using a hammer/chisel to slide the cap off of the clutch. But it was stubborn, and i ended up cutting two slots in the side to get the cap off.



The black ring is normally sits on top of the cap pictured above and acts as an inner race for the rubber seal in the front d.e. housing









Here's the back of the clutch assembly with the snap ring removed



And the snap ring itself



Here's the side of the clutch with the crimp ring removed



The brass bushing got some scratches in it when it was spun off of the planetary shaft





That green peice above just lifts off once the snap ring has been removed





Here's the inside of the clutch after being soaked in wd40 to remove the old grease



The springs just bias the rollers inside the roller ramp clutch towards the engaged position. When this clutch is actually installed in a starter, it will be spinning at thousands of revolutions per minute and there will be significant centrifugal force acting on the rollers.



And the back of the housing






Those black colored spots are rust coated in wd40









And here's the clutch housing with the rollers and springs removed





Take note of the incline ramps which the rollers ride on



And here's the rollers and springs





If you look closely, you can see the wear marks on the rollers



And you can tell the location that the rollers locked in on the housing too



Noticeable wear on the top of the roller too



The springs had some metal rubbed away towards the ends, but the metal wasn't worn through to any extent



Here's all the parts inside the starter







If we wanted to get this starter working again, we'd need a new positive brush assembly and also a new starter solenoid assembly. But ford does not service starter parts individually, and your local ford dealership will only sell you a complete rebuilt starter assembly.

Although not technically needed, most rebuilders of starters would also mediablast the housing parts to remove corrosion. And then coat the housing with paint or some sort of zinc rich covering to make the housing look nice and slow further cosmetic corrosion. You can read about further remanufacturing procedures, by viewing one of the brochures about starter remanufacturing:

In conclusion, this  particular starter lasted over 10 years in actual service. And met the marketing claims set forth in the visteon marketing brochure for new starters.

Application Information

12-Tooth Pinion Gear
12 Volt
CW (ClockWise) Rotation
1.4KW (KiloWatt)
PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction)
Top Hole Unthreaded 8mm
Middle Hole Unthreaded 9mm
Bottom Hole Unthreaded 9mm

This particular model starter will fit in a wide varierty of different ford vehicles:

Model
 From
 To
 Comments
Ford Crown Victoria
 1996
 2005
Mercury Grand Marquis
 1996
 2005
Lincoln Towncar
 1996
 2005
Mercury Marauder
 2003
 2004
Ford Mustang GT
 1997
 2003
 4.6L SOHC
Ford Mustang Cobra
 1997
 2003
 4.6L DOHC
Lincoln Mark VIII
 1997
 1998
Mercury Cougar
 1997
 1997
 4.6L
Ford Thunderbird
 1997
 1997
 4.6L:
Ford F150 Pickup Truck
 1997
 1998
 4.6L and 5.4L
Ford F250 Pickup Truck
 1997
 1998
 under 8500 GVW
Ford E150 Van
 1997
 2001
 4.6L and 5.4L
Ford E250 Van
 1997
 1998
 4.6L and 5.4L and 6.8L
Ford E350 Van
 1997
 2008
 5.4L and 6.8L
Ford E450 Van
 1997
 2008
 6.8L V10
Ford E550 Van
 2003
 2003
 6.8L V10
Ford Expedition
 1997
 1998
Lincoln Navigator
 1998
 1998

These starter models will also work in the 2006-2009 crown victoria, 2006-2009 lincoln towncar, and 2006-2009 mercury grand marquis. In 2006 model year, ford introduced the new 6W1T-11000-AA starter model to comply with it's Hexavalent Chromium Elimination program. The new 6W1T-11000-AA starter model is nearly identical to the older F75U-11000-AC model used in the 1997-2005 crownvics, but it's manufactured using ecologically friendly "low hex" materials.

Ford Engineering Numbers
F6VU-11000-AA
F75U-11000-AA
F75U-11000-AB
F75U-11000-AC
F7LU-11000-AA
F7LU-11000-BA
F7LU-11001-BA
F7UU-11000-AA
Service Part Numbers
F6VZ-11002-AA
F75Z-11002-AA
F7LZ-11002-AA
F7LZ-11002-BA
F7ZZ-11002-AA
F7ZZ-11002-BA
F7UZ-11002-AA
F7UZ-11V002-AA (Motorcraft SA-982 (New))
F7UZ-11002-AARM (Motorcraft SA-848RM (Remanufactured))
F7UZ-11V002-AARM
F7UZ-11V002-AARM1
Lester 3267
Wai Wetherill 2-1799-FD-1

If the solenoid "S" terminal is converted from a 1/4" spade terminal to the later ring terminal like in this aftermarket technical bulletin, the starter could be used on:

Model
 From
 To
 Comments
Ford Crown Victoria
 1992
 1995
 From 2/92
with AOD-E or 4R70W transmission
not compatible with AOD transmission
Mercury Grand Marquis
 1992
 1995
 From 2/92
with AOD-E or 4R70W transmissions
not compatible with AOD transmission
Lincoln Towncar
 1992
 1995
 From 2/92
with AOD-E or 4R70W transmissions
not compatible with AOD transmission
Lincoln Mark VIII
 1993
 1996
Ford Mustang GT
 1996
 1996
 4.6L SOHC
Ford Mustang Cobra
 1996
 1996
 4.6L DOHC
Ford Thunderbird
 1994
 1996
 4.6L
Mercury Cougar
 1994
 1996
 4.6L
Ford F150 Pickup Truck
 1997
 1997
 4.6L
Ford F250 Pickup Truck
 1997
 1997
 4.6L

Ford Engineering Numbers
F2VU-11000-AC
F2VU-11000-AD
F3LU-11000-AA
F4LU-11000-AA
Service Part Numbers
F2VY-11002-A
F3LY-11002-A
F2VY-11002-ARM (Motorcraft SA-789RM)
F2VY-11V002-ARM
F3LY-11002-ARM (Motorcraft SA-808RM)
Lester  3221
Lester (Old)  3233

Old 2-bolt starter application information

And here is the some application information for the 2-bolt starter used in 1992 crown victorias until part way into February 1992.

10-Tooth Pinion Gear
12 Volt
CW Clockwise Rotation
1.4KW PMGR Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Top Hole 10mm
Bottom Hole 11mm

Model
 From
 To
 Comments
Ford Crown Victoria
 1992
 1992
 2-bolt starter
To 2/92
with AOD transmission
not compatible with AOD-E or 4R70W transmissions
Mercury Grand Marquis
 1992
 1992
 2-bolt starter
To 2/92
with AOD transmission
not compatible with AOD-E or 4R70W transmissions
Lincoln Towncar
 1991
 1992
 2-bolt starter
To 2/92
with AOD transmission
not compatible with AOD-E or 4R70W transmissions

Ford Engineering Numbers
F1VU-11000-AA
F2VU-11000-AB
?? F7PU-11000-BA
Service Part Numbers
F1VY-11002-A
F1VY-11002-ARM (Motorcraft  SA-786RM (Remanufactured))
?? F7PZ-11002-BA
Lester 3242
Wai Wetherill 2-1884-FD-1





solenoid "S" new ring terminal 6U2Z-14S411-NA wpt-877 $10.95
solenoid "S" old spade terminal wpt-371 3U2Z-14S411-KBA $26.13